Page 2 of 7 FirstFirst 1234567 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 62
  1. Collapse Details
    #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    North Bay Ontario
    Posts
    68
    Post Thanks / Like
    Contribute If you enjoy reading the
    content here, click the below
    image to support our site.
    Click Here To Contribute To Our Site
    How do you plan on installing the volt, amp meters? I like that idea. Don't seem to be room on the front of the case to make a hole.
    Octagon SF4008, Vu+ Solo2, Titanium ASC1, Perfect 10 C/KU mesh 10 foot dish,Chaparral corotor II, 24 inch Von Wiese actuator, old AZBox premium HD Plus, TBS5925.
    Reply With Quote
     

  2. Collapse Details
    #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Atlanta, Ga.
    Posts
    8,190
    Post Thanks / Like
    I plan to put the meters under the existing display screen...Or at least that is my first idea for them.

    Now I am in the middle of gutting the ASC1 and remolding the inside. The big transformer was extremely hot when I opened the ASC1 case, and I am only using one leg of it. The ASC1 could probably have a streak frying on the inside of it and it would be cool to the touch on the outside due to the design of the case. Heat rises and there is really no place for the heat to go inside the ASC1. The heat has to pool on the top and then find its way out using the side vents. About everyone else uses fans for solid topped cases, or has holes cut in the top so the heat can escape.
    Reply With Quote
     

  3. Collapse Details
    #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Atlanta, Ga.
    Posts
    8,190
    Post Thanks / Like
    The modifications to the ASC1 are complete. This turned into a pretty lengthy job as I figured it would. Almost everything works the same mounted on the inside of the ASC1 as it did mounted on the outside. The dc power supply has a small dip in voltage at start-up that it did not have before. The dc voltage is rock steady after start-up, so I assume I made a mistake in the ac power wiring. I will check it when the ASC1 case is opened. This power dip is no big deal, and I am in no hurry to fix it because it lasts less than a second and is only a couple of volts dip.

    The replacement transformer was mounted to the top, on the inside of the ASC1 case in order to have good room for the new additional power supply board. Removing the original transformer took away a great source of heat, and also gave additional room for the new power supply board. All wires to the 115-220 volt switch on the back of the ASC1 were cut and rerouted. The ASC1 was wired for 220 volt applications which provided a twin set of ac power leads to power the new transformer, and the new additional power supply board.

    Digital meters for dc voltage and dc amps were installed on the front of the ASC1. The voltage remains constant, and a meter to monitor voltage could be eliminated. I think the amp meter is a very good addition because it allows a person to see the ASC1 moving the dish from across a large room. A person is clueless as to whether the dish is moving or not in a stock ASC1 because the display cannot be seen except at a very short distance.

    A small hole was nibbled in the front panel of the ASC1 to allow the meter wires to be connected. This small hole will need to be enlarged somewhat so the amp meter can be moved closer to the ASC1 case and be attached or mounted to the front of the ASC1. The dc meter is not as bulky on its backside, so only a small hole for the wires is needed for it.

    The heavy aluminum case of the ASC1, and the 115 -220 vac wiring made the dc power supply modification much easier. None of this would have been necessary had the ASC1 been designed as the specifications stated. You want the actuator that you paid $400.00 for to be fed with the correct dc voltage. A stock ASC1 can feed a big actuator, but it cannot move a big actuator or really any actuator to its full speed potential.

    Modification pictures to follow.
    Reply With Quote
     

  4. Thanks ViP3R, DaveLH, eastof111, skink thanked for this post
  5. Collapse Details
    #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Atlanta, Ga.
    Posts
    8,190
    Post Thanks / Like
    The stock ASC1 transformer weighed about 4 pounds and seven ounces or about 4.5 pounds. The printed circuit boards and wiring should weigh a little less or about 1 pound, so the total weight of the ASC1 could almost be split evenly between the transformer and the ASC1 case.
    [Only registered and activated users can see links. ]

    The ASC1 was stripped, then the new power supply board was set inside to see what positions it could be mounted in. Removing the larger stock ASC1 transformer gave more room, but not quite as much as I wanted. So the replacement transformer ended up being mounted to the top of the ASC1 on the inside.
    [Only registered and activated users can see links. ]


    The new power supply board was mounted next to the existing motherboard. Provisions were made to elevate the new board so air can get underneath it, and so it will not short out on the bottom connections.
    [Only registered and activated users can see links. ]


    The Original ASC1 motherboard was reinstalled, and provisions for the hall effect dc amp meter were also added.
    [Only registered and activated users can see links. ]


    The Amp meter and voltage meter were installed to the front of the modified ASC1. A small hole was nibbled in the front plate to allow for the wires, but a larger hole will need to be made for the amp meter to sit flush against the ASC1 case. The large white connector on the back side of the amp meter can be seen in this picture.
    [Only registered and activated users can see links. ]
    Reply With Quote
     

  6. Thanks eastof111, DaveLH, skink thanked for this post
    Likes ViP3R liked this post
  7. Collapse Details
    #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Atlanta, Ga.
    Posts
    8,190
    Post Thanks / Like
    I am sort of in a "Watch & See" mode at the moment. There are still a few small things to do, but I just want to see how things will hold up right now, and for the next day or two. The front meters need to be mounted, and the 4 main case screws need to be tapped and heli coiled. Two of the main case bolts were never tight, and the other two are not tight now. Stuff like this is common in Chinese manufacturing, and is also common in aluminum products. Installing heli coils is pretty much a permanent fix, but I do not plan on making a career out of assembling and disassembling this item!

    Dish moving time from 78 West to 139 West has decreased. It used to take about 1 minute to move this distance using a stock ASC1. Now it takes around 43 seconds to move the same distance. Overall current draw in amps has decreased except sometimes at start-up. It is not uncommon to see the amp meter jump to 3 or 4 amps briefly at start-up if the dish is several degrees from center. This is the way it is supposed to work! The increased actuator speed calls for a larger amount of current to get things moving. Voltage is holding steady at 35.5 volts dc except for the small, unexplained dip at start-up that was mentioned earlier.
    Reply With Quote
     

  8. Thanks eastof111, DaveLH, ViP3R, skink thanked for this post
  9. Collapse Details
    #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Atlanta, Ga.
    Posts
    8,190
    Post Thanks / Like
    The 3.6 meter dish has been moved many times now since the ASC1 was modified, and I have not had any issues. A Fluke amp meter has shown initial or start-up amps of up to 4.5, which equals to about 160 watts. This power level only exists for around a second, then settles down to around 2 amps, or 70-80 watts when moving long distances. Short dish moves that are made close to center or due south may have an initial burst of 3.5-4 amps, but quickly falls down to around 1 amp, which is about 35 watts. The amount of power needed to move a dish will usually be less in the Summer. Motors in general do not perform as well in temperatures below freezing, so the dish moving power can be expected to increase during the Winter. My modified ASC1 performs up to my expectations, and up to or above the maximum power requirements for the actuator.

    All that is left to do now is repair the ASC1 case screws or bolts, and permanently mount the meters so they can be seen at the front.

    I made several searches for ASC1 on the Internet which gave me some threads about problems or issues with this dish mover. Some stores in Europe initially carried or sold the ASC1 when it first came to market, but now I can not find anyone in Europe selling the ASC1. Seems most complaints were about the dish not moving or not stopping correctly, and this is something I have had zero problems with. I also saw some complaints about return shipping for repair, and I think the shipping weight is the biggest problem of the ASC1. Who wants to pay 40-50 dollars to return this thing if it has problems?
    Reply With Quote
     

  10. Thanks eastof111 thanked for this post
    Likes ViP3R liked this post
  11. Collapse Details
    #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Atlanta, Ga.
    Posts
    8,190
    Post Thanks / Like
    I located a very nice and inexpensive amp or current meter om Ebay.

    [Only registered and activated users can see links. ]

    This meter worked great, and did a real good job of showing the peak amps at start-up, and the average amps when running. It was comparable to my Fluke amp meter. The wiring for this amp meter confused me, and there were no instructions. I am used to connecting amp meters to the + or plus side of the dc voltage, but this particular meter will be damaged if you do that. At any rate, it lasted about 1 day before shorting out and burning up. The actuator power supply had a dead short for up to 10 hours due to the damaged amp meter before I noticed the problem. No apparent damage was done to the power supply.

    I have ordered a couple more of these little amp meters. It will be about two weeks before they get here, and I will try to wire them correctly this time.

    Why not do the same mods to a Vbox? Parts have been ordered to do exactly that. I do not see much of a need to pay over two hundred dollars for a modified ASC1 when a modified V box that costs 75 dollars will have the same amount of power. It will be interesting to see how the Vbox mod performs.
    Reply With Quote
     

  12. Thanks eastof111, iccoldbeer thanked for this post
    Likes ViP3R liked this post
  13. Collapse Details
    #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Atlanta, Ga.
    Posts
    8,190
    Post Thanks / Like
    Problems with the ASC1 losing the actuator counts have been a problem. My ASC1 did not have any issues with the actuator counts when I first got it, but then it gradually started losing them. I noticed the sensor wires inside the ASC1 were not shielded, so I removed the ASC1 cover to take a look. I did not notice anything wrong, so I put it back together, then the dish would not move. A broken sensor wire was found when the cover was removed a second time. These sensor wires have about the same quality as the wires in an Openbox S9. I repaired the broken wire, and have not had any more lost count issues. Cannot help but wonder if the wiring is causing others to have lost count issues?

    Had another problem with the ASC1 not wanting to move the dish. Recently I installed a Chieta diseqc switch directly behind the receiver, and in front of the ASC1. It looks like the Chieta switch has a bad effect on the ASC1 when installed in this manner. My Gbox has no issues at all with a Chieta diseac switch installed in front of it.
    .
    .
    .
    Meine Dreambox One ist ein Stück Scheiße!.
    Reply With Quote
     

  14. Thanks eastof111 thanked for this post
  15. Collapse Details
    #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    7,247
    Post Thanks / Like
    "Cannot help but wonder if the wiring is causing others to have lost count issues?"

    A possible bad or cold solder joint might be stretching it, might still a possibility.
    Reply With Quote
     

  16. Collapse Details
    #20
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    472
    Post Thanks / Like
    Hello EB
    I have the same issues with my ASC1, I was told that I needed to separate the motor wires from the sensor wires because noise from the power wires can affect the sensor counts, I use sprinkler wire for my setup, I have not separated mine yet, but another thing happened, my wife was out on the back yard digging and she cut the wires and shorted out the sensor on the actuator and had to replace the sensor and the wire, but before the wire was cut it was missing counts big time and after I replace the sensor and the wire is been doing very good, I would like to separate the wires but I can not find a 2 wire direct burial cable, I have about 8 feet that the wire has to go in the ground.
    Regards.
    Chewie
    Reply With Quote
     

Page 2 of 7 FirstFirst 1234567 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •